Tuesday, March 3, 2009

Clary

By James Pollock

Caught up in the fast pace of the present day we often forget age-old culinary treats that made life pleasant for our ancestors. One of the most aromatic is the inconspicuous savory, recommended by Vergil to his countrymen.

The berries contain a deep red juice, hence the name Sambucus, derived from the Greek word `sambyx', meaning red colour. Both the flowers and fruits are used in cookery. The inflorescences are cut off as soon as they open, spread out on nets to wilt, the blooms are then stripped from the stalks and rapidly dried so they do not discolour.

Dried blooms should be stored in air-tight containers. During the growth period it is best to use the fresh flowers. These have a refreshing fragrance and for this reason were at one time used in Europe to improve the flavour of Moselle wines that were not up to par.

The leaves are very aromatic and may be used both fresh and dried. They are added, together with the flowers of elderberry, to wine to give it a nutmeg-like flavour, hence the German name Muskateller-Salbei. They are also used to flavour jams and jellies. Nowadays clary is grown in Europe mainly for the extraction of the essential oil which has a lavender-like fragrance and is used in perfumery. In cookery it is used for the same purposes as common sage, but is rarely found on the kitchen shelf.

Their chief attraction in cookery is their lovely red colour which dissolves well in water. In former times elderberries were used to colour wine, chiefly port. They are added in small amounts to apple and pear compotes. In some north European countries they are used to make a fruit soup, eaten with baked apples and dumplings or toasted bread. They are also the principal ingredient of an old English ketchup called poulac.

It is very suitable for growing in the herb garden. Propagation is by means of seeds sown outdoors where the plants are to grow in early spring. The non-woody flowering top parts of the plant are gathered. These are tied in bunches and dried in a well-ventilated spot at a temperature not exceeding 35C (95F). They should then be stored in air-tight containers

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